Bogor, Indonesia

My Dad and his partner Maria live on Rancamaya Estate, just outside the relatively untouched small city of Bogor.  Bogor is just south of Indonesia's capital Jakarta and is pretty much completely off the tourist trail. We arrived late on a Friday night to be met by Dad and his driver, Dede. The drive from the airport was only about one and a half hours and we crashed as soon as we arrived.

Little did we know that this would be the view from their porch when we woke up!

Yes, that's right. This is Salak Volcano and it looms over their back garden, which only served to highlight the area's beauty and their lovely bungalow (with pool!).  On asking Dad if the volcano was active, he reassured us and said 'Don't worry, it hasn't erupted for a few hundred years.' In geological terms, that's hardly a blink of an eye! Ah well, if there's a way to go...

The first day was great - we just chilled out by the pool and relaxed. Maria's masseur visited and we all got a creme bath massage. It's a head, neck and arm massage that really, really bloody hurts! In fact, it's not meant to hurt but I was too macho to say anything. Here's Erika getting hers. Higher pain threshold, and all that...

Rancamaya Estate is set on an 18 hole golf course complete with a club house, pro shop and golf academy. The area is truly laid back and attracts retired locals and expats alike. Dad took us out on his golf buggy to have a look around...

The club house's pool.

The view of the volcano from the clubhouse. 

That night we had delectable traditional Indonesian cuisine and were joined by two of Dad and Maria's friends, Olga and Bas. The food was cooked by Dad and Maria's maid, Upi. We couldn't get enough of it. Before we knew it, it was already late into Saturday night and we talked the night away sharing stories of South Africa and drinking Dad's whiskey. Yep, we were on holiday again.

On Sunday, Maria had to be at the Shangri-La Hotel in Jakarta to help promote Canadian universities at an education fair, so they both treated us to the hotel's famous Sunday brunch. What did I do on Sunday's before I discovered Sunday brunch?! For 30 pounds you get to eat the best choice cuts of Italian hams, cheeses, pasta's, oysters, breads...and that's the starter menu. The main courses offered steaks, poultry and I can't remember the rest because there is free flowing wine and champagne. Read 'free-flowing' as 'bottomless glass'. Not only is the food a limitless barrage of absolute quality, your champagne flute will be topped up by your own waiter. The setting is top end, with Victorian couches to lounge on and an immaculately kept dining area sporting views of downtown Jakarta. For dessert I actually dipped some strawberries into a chocolate fountain. We've been converted and will probably do this in Bangkok every other month from now on. We've reached Level 2 on the Epicurean scales of...erm...levels.

I think this is Erika's 4th starter plate...or is it her 5th?

On Monday Dad and Maria had to go to an education fair near Jakarta for a couple days. Their good friend Olga, and some friends of hers from Russia, took us to Bogor's Botanical Gardens. Built by the Dutch in 1817 during their trading peak in Indonesia with the Dutch East India Company, the gardens are still in use today for botanical research. Lotus ponds, palms and orchid gardens line the wide avenues in this oasis of peace. 

Gimme shelter...

We walked up an appetite and made our way to a great little wooden affair next to the street that serves up a fusion of Chinese/Indonesian cuisine. We said goodbye to Olga and her friends and did some shopping. That night we were treated to a meal cooked by Upi. We're getting seriously fed here!

While we were at Bogor we also did some good shopping - we wanted Indonesian arts and crafts for the flat back in Bangkok and we were taken to an arts market where you could buy anything from a bongo to cutlery. The prices here were even less than in Thailand, so we bought quite a bit. Bogor also has a good amount of factory outlets where you can buy mock and real designer clothes at a fraction of the price. Gents, if you wear chequered shirts, Bogor is the place to buy them.

I played golf when I was a kid but stopped at the age of 18 and really wish I hadn't by the time Dad took us to the driving range on Wednesday. I was a bit rusty and it was the first time Erika had ever held a golf club but we had to practice ahead of our trip to the Bukit Golf Club the next day. A few blisters later, we were ready...

 ...to tee off at the beautiful Cibudas Golf Club which was set high up in the green, misty hills of Indonesia and is surrounded by tea plantations. This is a great course for beginners as it's surprisingly empty and therefore without any pressure from players behind you. Erika and I watched Dad and Maria tee off with perfect 250 yard drives before we sliced and hooked our drives all over the place. Poor Erika thought we were playing croquet, judging by her swing and strike length. After hacking our way through 18 holes, with our muscles aching and patience running thin, we promised ourselves to take it up once we got back home. If you want to get out in the fresh air with some good mates and end the day with a few beers, golf is the way forward! Forget the stereotypes and make it your own.

After a couple beers at the course's club house we made our way back home but stopped off at a streetside place for lunch which looked out over the mountains. 

We then journeyed on to Taman Safari so we could get our fill of big cats and orangutans.

A puma.

A cheeky monkey.

A rare white tiger. Absolutely beautiful.

"Keep driving. Nothing to see here, kids."

'I wanna be like you. ooh ooh...'

This is me laughing at the fact that the baby orangutan grabbed my hat and put it on his head. Little did I know that this little cute fella was seconds away from relieving himself all over my lap. Much to the pleasure of Erika and Dad.

We'd driven through the centre of Bogor a few times by now and the surrounding area had caught our eye. We could see red topped houses nestled next to the river in the valley and wanted to explore the narrow lanes that cut into it. There weren't many farang in the city itself, so were pretty sure that the sight of a blonde woman walking along the muddy market lane would turn some heads. It did and it also caused the market to erupt. The stall holders 100 metres in front of us knew we were there only seconds after we entered. 

Yes, these are multi-coloured chicks. 

Still, we wanted to travel, we got the travel. This was Indonesia without the frills, and we're sure Bogor will get those frills. It has a post-colonial charm about it and sits in beautiful countryside. The horse and carriages are still only for public use - but for how long? We carried on and went straight into the heart of the residential area of central Bogor and wandered down the winding lanes. You know those adverts you see of young khaki clad travellers being greeted by raucous local kids with big grins, grandmas sitting in doorsteps, mothers leaning out of windows? Yep.

This kid was selling homing pigeons. 

"David Beckham!" "Manchester United!" "Chelsea!" "I love Torres!"

"Do you like Tottenham Hotspur?"

"Who?"

Well, we've reached our last day already. Erika and Maria woke up early (along with Dad and I) to go and do some Tai Chi. Dad and I joined the walk...

...but opted out of the Tai Chi. Which actually looked damn hard! There's Erika in the blue trousers in perfect choreography with the others.

One more large lunch later at a Chinese restaurant with their friends and before we knew it we were on a plane back to Bangkok. We had such a great time and will no doubt beat Dad and Maria at golf the next time we see them. I've clocked in a few hours at the driving range in Bangkok already. 

Ah well, at least we knew we'd be on a beach again in no time, which will be in our next post.

Happy New Year!